Project #2018-3

Experience needed to address issues is moderate to advanced. Budget depends on final repairs and scope of work teams want to tackle, but estimate $1,500-3,000 in material cost. Note that this project would be limited in scope as there are items that will not be able to be addressed given the way the home is built. The building is built with insulation panels which are thin metal panels on both sides of insulation, screwed to the stud walls. The house is ‘wobbly’ as a result because nothing keeps it stable from side to side like plywood can do. There could be some plywood below the panels, but it is not easy to see. There is a lot of movement in the structure that will not be able to be addressed fully. This type of building was not meant for a residence originally, so keep that in mind. The main issues would be how to keep water away and providing some better insulation and windows if possible.

Click here for location. This project is located next to Project #4.

Exterior & Interior (Moderate to advanced) $1500-3000 

1. The home does not have any gutters as the roof is also built with the insulated panels. To add gutters, recommend screwing a treated 2×4 to the bottom of the metal panels to provide structure to support gutters. Then install aluminum gutters with the brackets attached to the treated wood. You will need to provide caulk or metal flashing where the gutter contacts the roof panels as the water could sit on top of the gutter edge and soak into the insulation. More investigation is needed, but this would be the best solution as the panels do not appear to be able to carry much weight. You may also want to provide a 45 degree treated brace back to the home from the new treated nailer so when the gutters receive water, they do not pull off the home. Seal all penetrations as water will penetrate the panels and erode the insulation over time.

2. The side door has been sealed shut and needs to be evaluated to make operational or removed and window/ wall replaced. There is an old porch on this side of the home that could be replaced. However, not a priority.

3. Currently at the front door and front of the home, the ground slopes directly to the walls and front door. This is causing water to come inside the home at the main entry when it rains, and undermining the foundation at the home. Some of the pictures try to show this, but it is hard to see. Approximately 24″ deep x 12′ wide x 30′ long of dirt needs to be removed along the front of the home. You can see some of the items like tables in some of the photos that are sloping to see how much there is in front.

We did not access the crawl space area, but imagine water is deteriorating the structure below based on visible sings inside the home. It would be good to rework the grades to provide slope away from the home. Need a small bobcat or some young eager shovels to make it happen. The columns on the front roof/ porch would need to be lengthened. You may need to install a small 24″ tall retaining block wall, the stackable kind, to help with the change when you remove the dirt. This change would go a long way to insuring they can remain in the home long term. The front door threshold will need to be replaced and some wood flooring on the interior of that door has been damaged.

4. New vinyl windows would help around the home. There are different windows at every opening, most not in good condition. To install, You may be able to screw directly to the panels, but you will need to install some type of flashing around the outside of the window to keep the water from coming in around the edges. Asphalt flashing tape should be provided around the windows, I would trowel on asphalt liquid around the opening prior to placing the window as another means of sealing the window into the opening. You may need to close in the opening to get windows to fit. Cutting the panels would not be easy, and the vibration could cause other damage to the panels around the walls. Build in with Treated wood. You could take treated plywood and cut the opening inside it for the window. Make sure you have 8-12″ around the cut opening to act as a flange to screw to the wall. Trowel on Asphalt behind the plywood, place the plywood over the larger hold, and screw in at 12″ O.C. around the opening into the metal panels. Self tapping screws work best. This will allow you to make all the openings the same and use the same window everywhere. Provide insulation on the inside with 2″ blue foam panels, and cover with a panel.

5. The window unit appears to be leaking into the window below. Replacement of the windows will help.

6. All exterior sheathing wood that was added on needs to be covered with Tyvek and metal sheathing or something equivalent.

7. There may be some opportunities to place diagonal bracing under the home if there are wood posts supporting the building. We did not investigate. Placing them going from high to low, and in triangle or x patterns in two directions would stabilize the home more. Send photos for consultation once you gain access. May not be anything we can do.

8. Insulation in the crawl space would help with the thermal discomfort during the winter. R-19 would be code. There should be access but we did not investigate.

Photos are enclosed below. This may be a large team or smaller 1-2 team effort, with One team focused on the grading, the other with the other exterior repairs. Call with any questions on items as this list covers the most critical needs, but there are other items that could be addressed as part of the renovation.